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Ask Amy: Pet Trainer

Amy Clear Takes Your Questions

Amy Clear, a dog behaviorial therapist and trainer, is taking your questions on WXII12.com's Pets page. She is with Bark Busters Home Dog Training -- 336-430-7719.

Submit your question to Amy by sending us an e-mail with your questions. Be sure to put Ask Amy in the Subject Line, then check back later for the answer! Bark Busters and WXII take no responsibility for injuries incurred to you or your dog as the result of the training information presented here.
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Be sure to check out previously asked questions to Amy below.

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  • 10-26-2008
    Teach Dog To Walk On A Treadmill
    I have a jack russell terrier, age 5 and I was wanting to teach her to walk on a treadmill for her excerise during bad weather days. Do you have any guidelines I can use to help me? Thank you.

    RE: Teach Dog To Walk On A Treadmill
    Unfortunately, I don’t recommend using treadmills for dogs. They are very dangerous. Dogs can become confused, scared, or hurt. Even in the winter I recommend walks. You can also play fetch in the house (a long hallway is great). TV shows have made this concept popular, but they require a lot of supervision and can they can still be dangerous. You can also try making games more challenging in the house, like hide and seek with a toy. Another idea is to look into indoor flyball and indoor agility classes. Those will provide a lot of fun and exercise.
    Amy

    10-24-2008
    Adult Dog Reverting Back To Potty Issues
    I have a 2 year old Yorkie whom I have allowed to start staying out of his kennel during the day for up to 8 hours while we are at work. He has had free roaming of the kitchen and living room area now for 4 months and has did GREAT (no accidents). As of last week, he decided he would use the bathroom on every corner he could find in the kitchen and living room. He even had a couple of the really bad accidents although he had done that prior to me leaving for work. We have now resorted back to kenneling him for the 8 hours and he has had no accidents. Any suggestions on what we could do different to allow free roaming of the two rooms for the 8 hours, but with hopefully no accidents.
    Thanks for your advice,
    Dana

    RE: Adult Dog Reverting Back To Potty Issues
    Dana, first I would ask that you have him checked out by a vet. To “go all over” could be a health issue. Once the vet says he is ok, I would shorten the time you have him out of his kennel and monitor him. Meaning that you need to pretend to leave (do all that you normally would do including drive away), sneak back and spy from a window. What you are looking for are any signs of stress (pacing, barking, running from window to window, etc). Having that freedom may have caused some stress on his part “oh, now I have to watch the house!” and he gets worried, his metabolism speeds up and he has to use the bathroom. His issue is then separation anxiety, not housetraining. That issue is only solved through behavioral training. If you spy on him over longer periods of time (3-4 hours) and you don’t see any excessive stress, he may just be happier in his crate (his safe zone). If you spy on him for very long periods (6-7 hrs) and see nothing, then I would give him another chance and leave him alone. That episode could have been an oddity caused by a loud noise outside, or something that scared him causing him to use the bathroom everywhere. I know it is hard to spy on your dog while outside for hours, especially during the fall and winter, but that is the only way you will know what is going on. Some people rent or buy a video monitor to see what is going on inside from the comfort of the neighbor’s house or even at work (depending on the kind you buy). But being in closer proximity allows you to go in and comfort him immediately if you see any stress. As always, feel free to write back if you need more information or have an update.
    Amy

    10-22-2008
    Using Pee Pads
    Amy i got a problem.....i adopted a 4 mouth old shih tzu that only weighs 3 lbs. she is very intellengent...in 2 hrs. she learned to fetch.she is healthy except she doesnt have much hair from being in destress premature. i dont know how firm to be with her on potty training. i have pee pads every where.she really wants to please me. i keep her in a 4 ft cage for safety during the day while at work for 7 hrs. she just cant catch on to pee on pads....what do i do....she is limited to just livingroom in afternoons. she doent get run of the house.any suggestions will be greatly appriciated
    pamela

    RE: Using Pee Pads
    Pamela,
    I could not tell from your question what kind of distress the hair loss is from. Much will depend on what is causing that. Is she stressed when in her crate? Have you talked to your vet about the hair loss and its cause(s)? If she turns out to be in good health and the hair loss is not from distress during the day when you are gone or from being in the crate, then I recommend you pick up all the pee pads and follow the guidelines I have posted here on WXII’s web site in my area. Make sure the crate is only large enough for her to stand, turn around and lay down comfortably. But, first, find out the cause of the hair loss. Talk to your vet and then again, if all is ok, use the steps I provided earlier in this area. Pee pads typically teach dogs that it is ok to use the bathroom on the floor. I hope this helps. Feel free to write again if you need to.
    Amy

    08-23-2008
    3 Year Old Still Tearing Up Things
    How do you stop a 3 year old Lab from stealing and chewing up toys and clothing. Is the dog bored, or just wants attention. She will go after the same thing over and over.

    RE: 3 Year Old Still Tearing Up Things
    3 yr old lab. Yes, it sounds to me that your dog is bored. Labs are working breeds. Do you take her for walks? Do you play fetch and have you developed some 'thinking' games for her (like hiding a toy and she has to find it)? Have you talked to your vet about using a backpack for walks (these make dogs feel like they have a job and you can gradually add water bottles)? Try food dispensing toys when you leave her alone, but those will only work for a limited amount of time. You may have to limit her access to areas of your home to keep your home and things safe. So, while you are working on giving her more to do, keep her confined somewhere in your home (kennel if necessary) and give her some toys. A tired dog is a happy dog, so walk her, play with her, give her some more challenging games. She does sound like she is bored. I hope this helps!
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    08-16-2008
    ROUGH PUPPY PLAY
    I have 2 four month old male schnauzer puppies. They are litter mates. Recently, their puppy play have turned into real dog fights. The last one resulted in blood being drawn. When they are separated, they whine and bark until they are united. They sleep curled up together. How should I deal with this?

    RE: ROUGH PUPPY PLAY
    This is a very serious situation. They are very young (4 mo) for this to be occuring. It says to me that they are both closely aligned in temperament and YOU need to IMMEDIATELY determine your 'head of the pack' position. They are trying to fight for the top dog spot and YOU need to be the one that has that job and then make it clear to both puppies that the top spot is 'taken' (ie. "No vacancy" . You need to set up behavioral training as soon as possible. Have these puppies been going to a puppy class? Even obedience classes may help, but I believe you need more advanced assistance. For now, keep them separated when you are not there and when you can supervise, have them both on leashes so you can control them. You need to keep them safe as you determine your training options. Feed them in separate locations (behind doors). Feel free to contact me as well.
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    06-27-2008
    Dog Pees When Excited
    I recently adopted a 1 ½ year old beagle chihuahua mix. She’s truly a great dog! My only problem with her is that when I come home or when someone else pets her she pee pees a little bit. She will even do this in her crate. It is never a lot and many times I’ll take her outside right after and she will go again. She doesn’t seem scared at all. I think she’s just too excited. The people at the humane society said that she’ll probably grow out of this but is there anything I can do to stop this behavior?
    Thank you, Sarah

    RE:Dog Pees When Excited
    For your dog that is peeing, ask yourself and carefully watch the interaction with people and your dog. Submissive peeing can be minimized if you really watch how people approach your dog. You will probably see this when visitors come in (all excited!) and reach to pet or walk over to pet/pick up your dog. You need to change how people say hi to your dog. Don't let anyone approach your dog - ever. She should be allowed to come to them on her terms. Then, tell people to keep their hands next to their side or they can crouch down and put their hands on the thighs or ankles (since she is small). Tell them to keep their hands on their legs and allow your dog to invite the 'pet' by licking or sniffing a hand (that is still on their legs). That hand can pet your dog, not both hands. Let your dog see that hands are not going grab her or reach into her face. Let her realize that petting is a wonderful thing and not so scary. You have to make people be slow and soft with your dog, not fast or quick to run/pet/pick up. You should see this peeing subside. This is also true for you. Don't approach your dog. Use the same rules and this should change dramatically! Good luck!
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    06-27-2008
    Fearing Storms
    Thanks so much for the advice on my little Rosie Mae, she really is a special little girl. Is there any thing I can do to help her when it storms. She is absolutely terrified, she shakes really bad and usually walks the floors. My sister thinks i am crazy because i want leave her by herself if its storming or even looks like its going to. Thank you so much for your help, Tracy and Rosie Mae

    RE: Fearing Storms
    Fear of storms can be very difficult and sometimes impossible to change. What you do not want to do is to tell Rosie Mae "It's ok, it's ok" in a light (we think comforting) tone. The dog hears this as "you are right to be afraid". So, ignoring is better and you can try to distract your dog with play or walk around the house to get some of the energy out. You can create a safe haven in her crate by putting the crate in a very quiet area and try to sound proof the room as best you can. White noise, or a blanket near the door frame of an inside room. With very bad storms not much sound proofing can be done. If she develops a severe reaction and drools or becomes very upset (panting, etc) talk to your vet. He/she may provide suggestions on medication that is not harsh that can help in those situations. I hope this helps!
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    06-24-2008
    Dog Not Wanting To Be Touched
    I rescued a Shih Tzu almost 3 yrs ago, she is now 6 yrs old. She has been badly abused. She is alot better now than she was when i first got her, but she still doesn't like to be touched. She wants to be right with me, but if i reach down to touch or try to pick her up she trys to hide. She will get on the couch and lay right beside me and even let me rub her while she lays there, but if i try to pick her up she trys to get away from me. She is terrified of storms. When i feed her she approaches her food very carefully. The list goes on and i so badly want her to know she will never be hurt again. She has come a really long way since she became a part of my family, but i really wish i could do more for her. Please, any advice would be much appreaciated.
    Thank You, Tracy

    RE: Dog Not Wanting To Be Touched
    Tracy, your little Shih Tzu sounds like a wonderful girl. Please try to love her on HER terms, not yours. If she does not want to be picked up (most dogs don't like this anyway), don't pick her up. What she needs from you most is to be able to trust you. So, let her come to you, let her sit next to you, pet her and love her. Let her see that you won't approach her and grab her (that's how she sees it) to pick her up. You have done a wonderful job of loving her and making her happy. She is so grateful for that. Now take it to the next level and let her be who she is. She will continue to love you and want to be with you. Just don't put your label on what love means. Love to her is not being picked up. For her food, just let her eat in a bathroom or laundry room and close the door. She will relax when there are no distractions. Over time and by being very predictable (you and all people she meets) she will know that she is safe with you. You have a big heart and have helped her so much! That is very special. Be calm, don't move too fast around her and be sweet and gentle. Don't let other people go after her to pick her up either. Let her go to them on her terms. Don't let people reach out to her, let her come to them (no hands in her face). The more she lives this the more it will create trust. I hope this helps. And please let me know if you need any additional recommendations.
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    06-16-2008
    German Shepherd Frenzy Mode
    Our 4 yr.old german shepherd has developed a behavioral problem that I cannot figure out how to correct. When we cannot be out in the yard with him he is kept in alot about 40 ft. from our house. I take him out for a walk about in the am and pm daily. However, when he is in the lot and we come outside for garden work or to clean the bird cage for my wife's love birds or if a neighborohood dog wanders by he goes into a frenzy mode. He begins running around the lot pausing at his water pail to plunge his front paws into the water and yanking them right back out he continues to do this until all the water is out of the pail.
    This makes a mess in his lot but more so concerns me that on hot days he could remain in the lot for a long period of time should we be away for the day. Since I can't reach his lot (40ft. away) I don't see how I can begin to effectively corrrect him. Suggestion how to deal with this problem? thanks
    Bobby Elledge
    ps I am in the process of installing an invisible fence...but will not be leaving the dog out when away from home! Could it be that he isn't getting enought excerise? and the fence may help?

    RE: German Shepherd Frenzy Mode
    Bobby, it sounds like your dog is developing anxiety about being in his lot when something else is going on. The fence will help for the times you are in the yard with him (as long as he is not in the lot but the yard along with you). From your information it seems like your concern is about this water issue happening when you are gone and thus, leaving him without water. That is a valid concern. I recommend you purchase an automatic water system that you can hang from his lot, getting the bowl portion off the ground and removing his ability to jump in it and dumping his water. If you fill it up, make sure you put ice in the large container so as the day goes on the water container is not dispensing hot water and obviously, hang the container in a shaded place. These watering container/systems are available online and in pet stores. If the kind you like has a detachable base for the water, simply build a platform for it on the fence. I hope this helps you!
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    06-03-2008
    Jumping German Shepherd
    We have a very loving German Shephard and honestly her only problem is that she jumps up on you when she is excited...when you first come in the house, when you are getting ready to take her outside, etc... how do you stop her from constantly jumping up on you???
    Summerjade

    RE: Jumping German Shephard
    There are many ways to try to get your dog to stop jumping. What works (and also what you should try) depends a lot on the exact 'way' she jumps on you. I know that sounds odd, but if she is all out running to you and leaps on you full force the method to stop that is different from a dog that runs up to you wagging and excited and then jumps up and down. So, without knowing exactly what type of jumper she is, I will try to give you some overall guidance. What she wants is attention from you or the leash to go outside, so do not give her those things when she is excited. Try turning your back to her and crossing your arms while looking upward. Totally ignore her. Keep turning around if she tries to get to your front. But stand still once you turn around. Be still and silent. If she is food motivated you can give her a treat once she gets quiet and stops jumping on you. What usually happens is that as soon as you begin to move to her again she will repeat her jumping/excitement. So, you must repeat your stillness and turning around. Be consistent and slow and deliberate. She does not get your attention or the leash to go out when she is excited. But once she does settle down, praise her and be happy with her. If she is too excited and does the running leap to you, try a spray bottle with water and spray the side of her face with a sharp "NO!" as she is approaching you. But stand up and don't bend over or approach her. She needs to understand that her approach is incorrect. Again, praise her immediately if she stops. Those are the two most successful methods to stop jumping. Good luck and I hope one of them works. Remember, the key is for you to be calm and deliberate.
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    05-29-2008
    1 YEAR OLD NOT HOUSE BROKEN
    Hi Amy! My daughters and I recently adopted a mini dauschund. She has just turned 1 year old. We were told that she was house broken, but we have not had any success so far. She will go outside, but will sometimes go as soon as we come inside and all over the house. I guess what I am asking is how to set up a good schedule for house training and where to start. We are gone for a minimum of 11 hours a day and sometimes 13-14, during the week. On the weekends we take her with us to games and would also like to know what schedule we should keep then for her. I do have a crate but have not incorporated that yet, although her previous owner did.
    Crewsk

    RE: 1 YEAR OLD NOT HOUSE BROKEN
    Well, I'm sure you are happy about your new dog! You need to use the crate when you are not at home, but 11 hours is too long for your dog to be left without the ability to go outside. I recommend you hire a dog walker or neighborhood friend to walk your dog at least 2x-3x during the day when you are gone. She can go back into her crate in between the walks. I recommend you review the details I have written in this section of this Pet Page about how to housetrain a dog. I also recommend that you have the same person play with the dog for a bit of time to reduce boredom. If you will be gone for 14 hours, you should increase the walks to at least 3x-4x. I hope this helps!
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    04-11=2008
    Aggressive Bulldog
    I have a 5 1/2 yo English Bulldog that is dog aggressive. She has been through extensive obedience training, actual she is titled. I have had to drop out of further training with her because I just don't trust her around other dogs. i have tried all of Ceasar Milan's tractics, but nothing seems to work. Any ideals?

    RE: Aggressive Bulldog
    Unfortunately, without more specifics about your dog, her reactions, timing, circumstances, surroundings, etc, I cannot provide guidance or tips on this type of serious issue. I will be happy to talk you over the phone if you would like to call me (430-7719). I'm sorry that this is one of those situations where I cannot recommend a technique because this behavior is very individual to the dog, your dynamics with your dog, the surroundings, etc.
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    04-4-2008
    Very Active Puppy
    i have a rescued puppy, was about 6 weeks old when we got him about 5 mnts. old now he does not like to be petted at neck always want to chew on hand and verrry active.will not come to me if he knows he's been bad by grabbing or tearing up whatever.very smart puppy how do you disepline one without making them afraid of you . i have never had a problem with any animal ever i'm a big animal lover , have a farm and want him to be gentle around all others and people. just want calm down ,i try to be the dominat one like everybody says any help vets think he has lab ,cattle dog in him so i know he's trainable.
    goatman61

    RE: Very Active Puppy
    When you have a puppy or dog that won't listen or focus on you, the best piece of equipment is a leash! Put him on a leash and find some special food reward that he LOVES! It could be a piece of chicken, turkey, cheese, turkey hot dog... something you ONLY give him when you are working on recall (coming when called). Crouch down and extend your hand with the treat in your fingers and call him in a happy/excited tone. Continue to call him to you (he can't go away because he is on his leash). When he begins to come to you and reaches your fingertips, slowly bring your extended hand/arm closer to you while you remain crouched. Make him come all the way to you and give him the treat when he gets to you. Then praise him! You repeat this over and over again until you see that your extended hand means 'come' and he comes to you quickly. Once he does that you begin to randomly give the treat (sometimes he does and sometimes he does not get the treat). Make sure you stay crouched and continue to use a happy/inviting tone. You are teaching him to come to you with a hand signal of outstretched arm being brought close to you with a verbal "come on, come on!" If you keep him on his leash in the house (let the leash drag behind him) and you are mindful of watching him (he is never allowed out of your sight) you can teach him to drop items he picks up by stepping on the leash and calling him to you (repeating the steps above, never sound mad). When he comes to you tell him "drop it" as you hold the item. Don't pull on the item to create a game, be assertive with your command and use whatever correction you normally use "NO! Drop it" etc. Praise him when he does. Once he gets the point that he cannot 'win' he will learn how to do what you ask him to do. For petting him, be very slow. Don't try to pet him when he is all excited and running around. Sit calmly and let him come to you (even sit on the floor). Don't touch him until he is calm. When he calms down, begin to touch his chest, under his chin with one hand... slowly. See how he reacts. Praise him in a very calm voice. If he gets excited, stop and put your hand back in your lap and just ignore him. Slowly he will learn that petting is a nice sensation. Once you see you can pet him under the chin and on his chest, begin to pet around the side of his face. Be very slow. If he begins to try to nip or mouth on your hand, correct him "NO!" while you freeze your hand where it was. Then begin to pet again, slowly, if he is calm. You continue to repeat this until he learns that petting is not a nipping game and that your hands are not going to hurt him. You can then begin to touch the top of his head. All of this is done slowly, in small, step-by-step increments. Don't rush it. You have a long time to teach a puppy so be patient. It is more important to win one time and stop than to rush through the steps to get to the 'finish line'. Dogs need to see that what you do is 'always', so repeat and be calm. I hope this helps!!
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    04-2-2008
    Oscar At Bedtime
    I have a 15 month old minature Daschund named Oscar. Oscar has been the sweetest and the most loving dog I have ever had. He has never growled or tried to bite anyone ever until recently. This week each time we try to pick him up to take him to his bed to lay down at night he turns on me and my husband. Usually he is laying on the couch and when we just reach out to pick him up he goes after us as to say don't touch me. He only does this at this time never any other time. Why is this and what should we do? I have tried to punish him to show it's not okay but the aggresive behavior continues at bedtime. It breaks my heart to think he would try to bite me but he has twice now. What should I do and what is causing this.
    Ashleyluve

    RE: Oscar At Bedtime
    Many, in fact most all dogs react badly to being "trapped" and being picked up. This happens a lot with small breed dogs that we love to pick up and carry around. The issue is that most dogs do not like that and Oscar has told you very clearly he does not want to be picked up. While he is on the couch and you approach him, he very likely feels "trapped" with no place to go. That trapped feeling makes the "fight/flight" response take hold. I recommend you call Oscar off the couch and encourage him to come with you for his bedtime. If he needs to be up on a bed for sleeping, get a set of steps or a ramp for him. That will allow him access to the bed without being picked up. In addition Dachshund's have a very long back and jumping up/down is bad for that back and a ramp or stairs is highly recommended.
    If you see Oscar act this way any other time, you need to seek behavioral training.
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    02-13-2008
    Overreacting Cockapoo
    Hi Amy, I have a 3 yr old cockapoo that is very friendly, non aggressive and obedient with one exception. When I walk him in the neighborhood, and I stop to talk to neighbors, he will sit and stay until that person starts to walk off. When they begin to walk off, my dog tries to go after them with a furocious growl. Of course I have him on a short leash, but he is strong and pulls with all he has to get to them.
    Kindest Regards, JW

    RE: Overreacting Cockapoo
    When your cockapoo begins to THINK about reacting to the other dog, you need to pull up/over on the leash quickly with a very deep 'NO!'. Don't bend over, stand still. You are looking for your dog to focus on you. When that happens, and it should right after the correction, step back a few steps and call him to you. Give him something else to do instead of focusing on the other dog (meaning having him come to YOU). Your timing needs to be immediate when you see your dog begin to hyper-focus on the other dog or person, stare, freeze or lean toward the dog. Any type of reaction. Set up the situation with your friend. Have them tell you, "I'm going to turn around now and walk away". That way you will be ready for your dog to react. Be immediate with your correction.
    If you see the reaction getting worse (lunging, snapping, etc) you need to do some training with your dog because those are safety concerns as well as a sign that your dog is very worried/stressed.
    I hope this helps!
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    12-22-2007
    Excessive Barking
    Nalu is a male mixed breed adopted adult dog. he has always had a very sweet disposition and friendly towards strangers. however, months later, he has found his voice and barks at strangers and dogs...all while his tail is wagging feriously! he isn't being aggressive - just barks his little head off. it's embarassing to take him anywhere cause he continously barks (on his back getting his stomach scratched/sitting/standing w/ tail wagging & non-aggressive). i've tried telling him "no" and making him sit till he's calm again - but it starts up again as soon as he sees another "stranger/dog". repeated attempts at this method isn't working. help me!
    thank you!

    RE:Excessive Barking
    Dogs bark for many reasons: call the pack, protect the pack, alerting, 'talking'/'calling', etc. Dogs need to be able to communicate, the problem arises when you want your dog to be quiet and he/she won't stop! They won't stop unless they understand that you have the situation under control. That happens when the dog respects your position in the pack, meaning you are the leader. You can try saying 'no!', redirecting with a toy or something that he likes, but from what you are describing I don't think that will stop the barking. Behavioral training that is focused on teaching you to be the 'top dog' is the best way to solve this. Of course, avoiding situations is a temporary option, but not a fix. I am sorry that there is not a 'quick fix' to this issue.
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    12-07-2007
    Aggression When Greeting Strangers
    Amy,
    I have a 14 year old boxer. He's wonderful and is the best dog I have ever had the honor of loving. The only problem he has is his very aggressive nature when it comes to food. He cannot eat around other dogs without attacking them if they get too close to him. I have worked with him immensely to become the dog that every says "Oh My Gosh, what a well-behaved dog you have..." but this problem I can't seem to shake. Do you have any suggestions? Other than the obvious: don't feed him around other animals. The issue with that is, it doesn't matter if it is his food or not, or if it is just something he found out while walking him...it is his and that's that with him. So, I'm hoping you can enlighten me as to why he's doing this. I know there is some psychology behind this behavior.
    Thank you,
    F.A. Greenwood

    RE: Aggression
    FA Greenwood, If your boxer has been doing this his entire life then we can rule out a health issue. However, is he underweight? What food does he eat and how often? Does he protect other items, like toys, from you? What have you done in the past to correct this behavior? Food is an essential requirement to life. When dogs feel threatened or insecure they will protect what they feel they must. Without seeing your boxer and knowing more answers to some questions it is impossible to diagnose. He can be hungry, meaning that he is eating a good quantity but low quality food (talk to your vet). If he is hungry you can always add no-salt, canned green beans to his food to help him feel more full. Is his aggression only toward dogs or to anyone that comes near his food bowl? Do you pick up the food bowl when he is finished. Protecting items can have a lot to do with fear and can be deep-seated from when he was a puppy (how he was weaned and how all the pups ate). Unfortunately, I cannot just give you one answer. Obviously you can and should remove the stress over his food and feed him in a laundry room or bathroom with the door closed. Pick up the bowl when he exits the room. Make sure your vet knows how he acts so his weight and nutrition can be checked. If you want to call me I can review more specifcs based on the answers to my questions. Good luck and make sure you keep him and others safe.
    Amy Clear Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer Bark Busters Home Dog Training 336-430-7719

    11-21-2007
    Problems Getting Along
    We had four dogs (1 maltese and 3 maltese-bichon), several months we took in a rescue dog, Brandi at about 6 weeks old. Originally everyone was getting along. Brandi is now 55 pounds while the others are 7 and 12 pounds. They are not having problems getting along really good. Brandi wants to play with them however if she uses her paw, there is a lot of weight behind it and the other grawl her at and dont want to play. the other female and her do not get along, since Brandi has "gone after" her over a bone. Brandi takes toys from the other dogs. I dont know if this is still the pup in her (8 months) or not. I know she just wants to play most of the time. This situation has become stressful. I feel bad for each of them in different ways but I want them to get along and be happy with each other.

    RE: Problems Getting Along
    What you have going on is all about pack order and structure. Now that Brandi is old enough, she is trying to assert herself into a leadership role around all the other dogs. That is what she is doing when she steals the bone. Some of the 'heavy' play could be just that, she is so much bigger that play can be dangerous for the little dogs. This will make the little dogs fearful of her and growl and snap when she gets too much for them. What you should see is that Brandi stops at that point, IF she understands her role in the pack. If she doesn't or wants to move up in her status, she will roughly "play" more. Your dogs have been left to figure out that pack structure on their own. Like kids, your dogs need rules and a clear understanding the YOU make the rules, not them. So, when Brandi gets too much, you need to tell her to stop and she needs to respect your role and stop. You need to keep your smaller dogs safe while you look into training. Give food and treats away from Brandi. You need to take on the leadership role in your house quickly or this could get worse. YOU need to be trained on how to be the leader of your pack which means behavioral training. Please talk to your vet and investigate training.
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Panicks In Crate
    Yes I have two Pomerian dogs. One is two years old that is Chester .The other is 6 years old his name is Lucky. Chester was potty trained. The problem when I adopted Lucky who was rescued from a very abusive situation. He was abused to the point he spent several days at the vet (hospital). I have tryed to get him potty trained nothing works. My two year old pom has started back to using the bathroom in the house. I can not use a crate. Lucky panics if he has to go into any thing like that. I have tried the pads. Can you recommend something. I love them both.

    RE: Panicks In Crate
    Sherry,
    How long have you had Lucky? Sometimes it takes a rescue dog time to settle in. But, if you cannot use a crate, you need to restrict your dogs ability to be outside of your sight. Keep them on a leash and with you constantly when you are home. When you are not home, you need to develop a small enclosed area that can be like a crate. Do not use pee pads, that usually teaches dogs to use the bathroom on the floor. Use the small area by placing Lucky's food bowl and water in that area. Feed him in there.
    Follow the steps I have outlined on this page (see above), but use the leash (tied to you) and the small room instead of a crate.
    Please also call me as there may be additional things you can do to escalate this training that I can customize for your situation. This can be difficult and inconvenient to keep you dogs with you but they need to understand the proper bathroom habits.
    If Lucky is healthy and does not have urinary issues, try these things and also call me. Traumatized dogs take extra patience and understanding and I will help you in any way I can.
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Aggression When Greeting Strangers
    hello amy,
    i hope you can provide me with some advise. My wife and i adopted a 4-5 month old boxer mix from the animal shelter about 2 weeks ago. while at the shelter, she was so sweet to EVERYBODY. Once we got her home, she settled in with us very well and we have bonded as a pack. however, now if she sees strangers while on walks or a neighbor stops by she greets them with all the hair on her back standing and growls at them. We are not sure how to handle this situation. we let her approach them, sniff, and have them give her treat and after a bit she warms up. a friend said to place her on her back if she growls at them. we are just not sure how to handle this...we don't want to reinforce that growling is tolerated, but still want her to meet new people and to not growl at every new person she sees.
    thank you,
    dr. katz

    RE:Aggression When Greeting Strangers
    Dr. Katz, Dogs can act aggressive for many different reasons. It is impossible to diagnose 'why' for her without meeting her, but it sounds like she may be a bit unsure of her environment. Are the treats working? Sometimes that will help get her focus back to you and to reinforce that the new people are ok. If it is working, try to hand or toss some treats to the person so they can actually toss the treats to your boxer (she needs to see the food coming from them). Allow the treats to land close to her while not forcing her to get close to them. Allow her to meet them on HER terms! Don't force her or have them approach her. And DO NOT put her on her back to make her so submissive in a situation she is unsure of this will make the situation worse. Make sure she is on her leash for new introductions. It sounds like you were referring to going for a walk, but if this is happening with people coming to your door, also keep her on a leash to control the situation. If this is happening in your home, create a special treat jar near the door filled with a special kind of treat she LOVES that she only gets from new visitors. Allow the visitors to open the jar and toss her treats. As you see her tense up (hair up), don't reinfore that with "It's OK baby", "It's alright" in a high tone. That will also reinforce her behavior. Instead, remain calm, stand up and be more assertive in your body language. That will travel through the leash to tell her you are not worried about these new people. She needs to know that the situation is under control. If you find the treats from you and the new person works... keep doing it. Remember, the new person should stand calmly and allow your boxer to approach. No reaching for her. Allow the person to slightly bend and keep their hands to themselves but where your dog can see them. She needs to be allowed to scent the person and then come back to you. Allow her to have this interaction time and time again. Dogs need predictability. Make sure you control the interaction and the people. You should see this become a more comfortable situation. If you see it does not or it gets worse (more growling or she lunges), immediately investigate behavioral training as that is a precursor to a bite. All of that stress is also not a happy way for your dog to live. Good luck and feel free to contact me if you have any specific questions.
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Chewing and Biting
    My boyfriend and I recently got a male boxer puppy named Bruce. He is a real sweetheart unless he is chewing and biting on everything. I know it is normal for puppies to chew on things but sometimes (most of the time) he is chewing and biting on US pretty hard. We have bought many chew toys for him and when he begins to chew on us or someone else we tell him no and give him the toy that he is suppose to chew on but he just wants our hands or feet. Another problem is that when we take him outside to use the bathroom he wants to bite and pull on his leash for hours on end if we would let him. I've heard to never play tug of war with dogs and if they are tugging to never let go because that is a sign that we are submitting to him. I usually begin to walk with him around the yard for a while and try to turn his attention towards exercise rather than biting on the leash and sometimes it works but other times he will not let go of his leash. What can we do because right now he is only around 20 lbs. It will be a totally different story when he is around 75 like his father. Like I said we love him to death and would not give anything for him, but he has a few things to work on.

    RE: Chewing And Biting
    Puppy chewing can be annoying and it can begin to escalate. He is very young, so I suggest you try Bitter Apple spray (it comes in a white bottle with bright green label). Spray your hands and feet and the leash with it. To do this correctly, put him on his leash and stand on it so he cannot run off as you will need both of your hands (or have someone else hold the leash). Each time you do this start by spraying your fingers liberally with the spray and then rub your fingers on the top and back of his tongue. Immediately then spray the items (don't hesitate covering them liberally, but read the label for furniture, etc). This helps him associate the 'nasty' taste with the item. Reapply the spray often (every other day). Some dogs actually like the taste of bitter apple, if this is the case, talk to your vet to see what he/she may have that may work the same way.
    If the nipping gets worse you will need to do training with him because teeth on skin is a big NO NO!
    Good luck with your new baby!
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Dog Going After Outdoor Cat
    My husband & I have recently adopted a beautiful 6 yr old standard poodle. She is such a good girl except when it comes to my cat. She goes to the groomer who has an indoor cat and she does not bother it at all but my cat who stays outside, she tries to kill every opportunity she gets. She is consumed with him. She goes from window to door and door to window looking for him and when we go out for walks she nearly drags me down trying to get to him. He is a very calm cat and doesn't understand why she is acting like this. I have 3 other dogs who don't bother him. My husband & I have tried everything to get her to not pay him any attention but nothing is working. We've dangled her favorite treats in front of her but as long as he's in sight, that's all she thinks about. She has bitten him but thankfully he's a fluffy cat so all she got was a mouthful of fur. I'm afraid if she gets away from us she will kill him. Is there any advice you can give us?

    RE: Dog Going After Outdoor Cat
    Since your dog has already bitten this cat, you are right to be concerned about how far she would go if given the opportunity. She is hyper focused on your cat and you will need to desensitize her to your cat slowly. First, you need to establish that she will listen to you. I don't know what you have tried before or what level of response you got and I don't know how you tell her 'no' now, but before you do anything, you must have a clear method of gaining respect from her when she is doing something wrong. You can test your method of correction during play to see if she will listen to you when excited. If not, then you will never get her to listen to you over the cat using your current method.
    Dogs listen and respect the leader of their pack and if you are that leader she will listen to you. Some breeds make even that challenging because of what they were bred to do (Beagles love to have their nose to the ground and stopping that behavior can be impossible). But, since she is not reacting to the other cat you know she can do it.
    Try some training with her, whether that is obedience or behavioral. Establish a clear set of rules and method of telling her right from wrong before you try to overcome the issue with the cat. In the meantime, keep her on a leash outside until you know the cat is safely in a tree or put the cat in a room when you let your dog outside.
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Pulling On Leash
    Hi Amy,
    My husband and I have a Llewellen Setter that is 4 years old. He is very smart and we completed an obedience class with him when he was about a year old. He is very energetic and strong. Although he is basically an indoor companion, we do have a large fenced in area for him to run jump and play, but he never runs out of energy.
    Our problem is when we take him outside, which is always on lead he lunges from the back door and if you're not prepared it is painful to shoulders, fingers, arms, you name it. Then once outside he pulls sideways on the lead so hard he forms a "V" shape with his partner. We use a 1" nylon combo collar from lupine that he can't slip out of due to it's cinching action. He doesn't seem to mind that he's choking the whole way. I don't want to hurt him. We've also tried harnesses and prong collars and it makes no difference in his behavior. We would love to be able to take him out to parks, etc. for walks but it is simply impossible. He is so strong you can only take about 5 minutes of this pull away from you. It's not like he's trying to get ahead of you, he's walking sideways pulling away from you.
    He has other issues also: he will not go up or down stairs; and my husband was initially got him for a bird hunting companion but he freaks out at the sight of a gun. When my husband brings his hunting shotgun or any of his guns out, Quint freaks out and comes to me and climbs all over me like he want's me to hold or hug all 48 pounds of him.
    What to do? I sure hope you can help, we are willing to try any suggestions you might have for us.
    Thanks so much for this forum.
    Wanda aka Ozzymom

    RE: Pulling On Leash
    Wanda,
    Well, it sounds like you have a very fun and energic dog! Pulling on the leash is usually a behavior that occurs with other behaviors. For example, if he is rushing out the door so fast that he pulls your arm out of your shoulder, he is already not listening! My guess is he also zooms around or jumps or wiggles when he sees the walking collar of leash making attaching them difficult. The walk starts well before you attach the equipment! If he doesn't listen to sit/stay, no jumping, rushes the front door for the doorbell, rushes up/down stairs before you (though your guy doesn't like stairs), bugs for attention and rushes out doors before you... then he is calling all the shots in your pack and the walk is just another example of it. To gain control of the walk you have to gain control in the house with other behaviors. Then you gain control of the in/out door where he politely sits and stays until released so you can move through that door before him. Then you work on leash walking in the house (where there are no distractions) and then you go outside. Quint will listen to you if you clearly let him know you are the head of your pack and what your expectations are. Quint, being a hunting dog by breed, is looking for 'jobs' and needs some mental challenges. You will see much of this energy get "used up" if you make him think very hard about certain exercises.
    Start with sit and stay (in the house). Make him stay as you move farther and farther away before you return to him and release him. You can increase the mental challenge by removing yourself from his sight, tossing a toy or piece of food and he is not allowed to move until released by you. This is a great 'game' to dogs and it makes them really listen and focus on you as they wait for their release command. You can also use this for mealtime. Make him sit/stay when you put his food bowl down and then release him.
    There are many other things you can do, but you must establish your leadership role. Dogs want structure and predictability.
    His fear of guns is entirely a different situation. There are things you can do, but there are experts in this field that help hunting dogs overcome this fear and focus on their task. I suggest you research some of those field trainer. In the meantime, don't continue to traumatize him. Put him in another room while your husband is preparing to go hunting so Quint won't see the gun or the other items.
    If you are interested in the training method of Bark Busters you can call me or visit the web to get more information.
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Pet Food
    With all the different kinds of pet foods on the market, what do I look for to make sure I get the best food for my pets?

    RE: Pet Food
    Food and nutrition are very important to humans and to pets. Knowing what is best for your pet can be time consuming and challenging, but it is worth the effort. ALWAYS talk to your vet first. Make sure your dog does not have any health issues and a good check up is a great starting point. There are prescripton foods that help certain health issues and your vet would know what your pet needs. The next step would be to talk to a specialty pet retailer that carries holistic and natural foods. Dogs are carnivores, they need protein and veggies. Certain grains are ok, but again, talk to your vet as the percentage of protein (that percentage will be on the back of the food bag) and the type of grains needed for your dog can be driven by age, breed (small/large), activity level, etc. Some dogs are sensitive to certain foods and some dogs have allergies to environmental factors. Read the back of the food bag. Dogs do not need additives, food colorings or complex carbs like corn. The quality of protein is very important as is the manufacturing process. If you do switch dog foods, do so gradually. Don't shock your dogs' digestive system with a big change. Replace a small amount of each feeding with the new food and gradually increase the percentage of new food to old food. There are also good books available on the subject of pet food and pet health.
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Eating Other Dogs Poop
    Why do some dogs eat the poop of other dogs in their pack or not? This is great for keeping the yard picked up but not a becoming trait.

    RE: Eating Other Dogs Poop
    There are lots of reasons why dogs will eat poop. I always have people talk to their vet to have their dog checked out. They can be missing some nutrients in their food (talk to your vet, see what is in your dog food- too much grain and not enough protein could mean your dog is hungry). This can also be a behavior related to being a dog. Canines instinctively eat their poop to cover where they have been (related to territory). Some dogs do this from habit while others may do this because of boredom.
    Your vet usually knows your dog well and can advise you on which of these is likely the cause for YOUR dog. He/she may suggest a supplement that changes the way the poop smells/tastes so they stop eating it. This will work for some dogs. Your vet may suggest outside toys, more walks, different food, etc. Because your vet knows your dog, having a check up and a chat with your vet is the best next step.
    It is very nasty for humans to see this, but remember, dogs are not people and their digestive system is not the same as ours.
    So, set an appointment up with your vet and you will likely find out the reason for YOUR dog's behavior. If he/she feels it is routed in other behaviors you may need some additional help (separation anxiety), but usually that is not the case.
    Thank you for the question, it's a good one!
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    More House Training
    I too am having problems with my CockAPoo (Belle). I have had her since she was about eight weeks old and she is now almost three years old. I have tried everything to house break her but to no success. She will do good for a couple of days but then she will start wetting my carpet again. I tried putting her in a crate at night and while I work. She whines and whimpers all night so I get no sleep. She also acts very scared and skittish when I let her out. After a couple of weeks of that, she got to where she wouldn't come to me anymore and her personality changed so I quit putting her in the crate. I sent her to my daughter's for awhile since she has other dogs and thought that might help. She doesn't wet on the floor there, she poops.
    I have had several dogs and never had a problem breaking. Please help me. If I can't find a way to deal with her, I'm going to have to get rid of her. I don't want to do that because she was a gift from my daughter. We just don't know what to do.
    Thank you for your assistance, Im4given

    RE: More House Training
    I will tell you some steps to try, but you must feel ok with doing them or it will fail. Dogs read us very clearly, so make no mistake your dog has you very well trained and is manipulating you. Older dogs find it much easier to just go in the house, so here are some recommendations.
    First, always have your dog checked by your vet. Make sure there are no medical reason for this. Once that is clear and the vet says your dog is heathly, you need to get serious.
    1. Make sure you have a crate that is sized correctly. It should only be large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lay down in. Too big is just that.
    2. 2. Move the crate if your dog whines and whimpers at night while in the crate. Move it into a family room, laundry room or some place where the noise is less likely to bother you. But, plan on several nights of little sleep.
    3. 3. Get a schedule going. Your dog should not be in the crate more than 7 hrs for an adult dog.
    4. 4. Have meal time. No free food. You put the food down and pick it up when mealtime is over.
    5. 5. Take your dog outside to the areas where you want your dog to eliminate. Use a command "go potty", "hurry up" and be consistent.
    6. 6. If after 20 minutes your dog has not gone, bring it in (on leash), put it in the crate for 15 minutes and back outside after that. Repeat this until the dog goes.
    7. 7. Even after your dog uses the bathroom, keep an eye on your dog. Until your dog is completely trained it has NO freedom in your home to wander about.
    8. 8. Take your dog out after it eats, naps, when you come home and after he/she plays.
    9. There are more steps I can share with you for your specific situation. And, for anyone else reading this, always check with your vet first. Many times the issue is health related. Never use the crate as punishment. It is a safe place and a secure place for your dog. Never misuse it. You can visit our website:
    www.barkbusters.com for more housetraining tips. Each situation can be slightly different.
    Putting your dog in a crate is NOT mean or punishment. But, if you do not stay firm and consistent, if you get fed up your dog will continue to go on the floor.
    There are some more pointers and recommendations I can provide for you if you find this is helping but not getting you 'to the goal line'!
    When you say her personality changed, it did not. Unless you beat her and abused her you cannot change her personality. She was being submissive and trying to figure out her next move. When you misread her, she 'won' and back she went to her easy going to the bathroom on your floor.
    Make sure you make outside more fun than just a place to go to the bathroom. Your dog must enjoy outside for more than just bathroom. If you have a fenced yard, play outside, sit outside and let your dog have some outside time that is removed from bathroom. If you do not have a fenced area, still find a way to read a book, sort your mail, call a friend, while your dog is on the end of a large leash and you sit in a chair. She needs fresh air and sunshine and 'chill out' time while you do something else (ignore) her.
    Please feel free to call me as I will be happy to help you more specifically. I realize this is a long message, but this is an issue for so many people!
    Good luck!
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    House Training
    I have a 1 1/12 y/o Boxer/Pitt that continues to urinate on my carpet. I take her out every 2-3 hours when I'm at home but she has her accidents when I'm not home. She is crate trained but due to long nursing school hours, I don't like to leave her in her crate. I've used multiple chemicals from PetSmart to get her to stop using the bathroom inside but they're not working.
    What can I do to get her to stop using the bathroom in my house??

    RE: House Training
    First, check with your vet to make sure your dog does not have a UTI. Sometimes an infection will cause frequent urination. If this turns out to not be the case, then you need to continue to use the crate. If you will be gone for more than about 8 hours, see if you can get a friend, neighbor or dog walker to let your dog out. If you do not restrict the area you will not cure this. Set up a routine for when you are home and when you are not home.
    If you use the crate the way you would with a puppy (restrict the ability to use the bathroom on the floor), you will find you can fix this issue. Again, it may require obtaining some help, but it is worth it for you and your dog!
    If you need more specifics on how to set up a routine/schedule, please feel free to call me (336-430-7719).
    Thanks!
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Humping Arm
    I have a 2 year old Black Lab/ Beagle mix. After we get done taking a little walk I will usually sit on my front steps and let her wander around on her leash. Sometimes wile I am sitting there she will get the urge to hump my arm. I wonder if she is confused about her sexuality or what? My friend told me it might be a sign of domination. Another odd thing about her is that when I call her name she perks right up and runs straight to my roommate. She listens to me sometimes but not all the time.

    RE: Humping Arm
    It sounds like your dog is going through another level of maturation. Your friend is correct, humping is used for domination, especially if your dog has been spayed/neutered. If she was spayed as a pup, then she has no real 'sexuality' and this is an act of letting you know she is the boss. It also goes along with her not coming when called. As she ignores you or goes to someone else she is letting you know that she doesn't think she has to do what you ask. As she is going through this next level of growing up, these are like tests for you. She wants to see what you will do about it! You can use a leash when practicing coming when called. Toss it back and forth with another person to make sure she comes to you. Crouch down and encourage her to come to you. Never sound mad when you do this! Praise her when she does come to you. The leash will give you control over the exercise. If she refuses to come to you, use a stern "NO!" a slight tug on the leash at the same time and then immediately call her in a happy tone. You should also correct her when she tries to dominate you with the same, deep, "NO!" and look for her to stop and go away.
    I hope this helps!
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Barking Ferociously
    I have a 9 mo.-old male doberman and a 3 yr.-old female German Shepherd. The problem is, when they are outside in our yard, and they see one of our next-door neighbors come out of their house, they begin to bark ferociously. The neighbors know enough about our dogs to know they're not mean or dangerous in the least, but we can't get them to stop barking at them. I can stick my head out the door and tell them "sh-h-h-h", and they will stop as long as I'm out there, but as soon as I go back in the house, they start barking at them again. How can I get them to stop barking at the neighbors like they're going to take their heads off?

    RE: Barking Ferociously
    Well, I guess I don't have to tell you that you are not getting through to your dogs when you tell them to be quiet! Dogs bark for a variety of reasons, calling the back, protection, boredom, etc. You could have any combination of those reasons, but understand that barking is a behavioral problem that requires behavioral changes to fix it. The behavior changes mostly hinge on YOU! Your dogs do not see you as the leader or more dominant pack member. Dogs who understand they are the subordinate, listen and respect their leader(s) who should be the owners. There is not a quick fix to your situation. You need to change the hierarchy in your pack and let your dogs know YOU are the one they need to listen to and respect and that YOU know who/what are threats to you or your property.
    I know you would like a step-by-step solution, but there just isn't one. You can look at our web site for some understanding about why dogs bark (www.barkbusters.com) but that will not solve your issues. You can call me if you are interested in changing your position in your pack!
    I will also tell you that nuisance barking, protection barking, etc rarely gets better, it only progressively gets worse. If your dogs are barking aggressively, you need to seek training help as soon as possible. Your dogs are not "kidding" with their communication.
    I hope this is helpful in beginning to understand what is going on with your dogs.
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Intimidating Other Dog
    Hi Amy,
    I have a 3 1/2 yr old mixed female dog, Sugar, I rescued 2 yrs ago, she is very smart and has a lot of energy. Two months ago I adopted a "friend" for her, a 2 yr old beagle male, Max, who is scared of everything. I have been making progress with him but it has been hard. He will only eat outside, seems to get along well most of the time with Sugar. I have realized that Sugar has been intimidating him by not allowing him to come in the house or near food and is very jealous when I show him attention. He is such a sweet little guy I hate to see him being bossed around like that. I correct her when I see her doing it, which seems like all the time lately. Is there something I can do or does Max just need to learn on his own not to let her boss him around like that. She hasn't been aggressive by fighting or biting, she uses her head and her body to block him from coming in the doggie door, going into the bedroom where their beds are, coming to me and stuff like that. I'm beginning to think I made a mistake by getting another dog. Thanks for taking my question and for your help.

    RE: Intimadating Other Dog
    You should take this situation seriously. Your female dog may take her 'corrections' too far and/or never allow the male to feel like he belongs. You really need to rearrange your pack order. Your female should stop being the 'top dog', that is YOUR spot! I highly recommend some behavioral training that focuses on teaching YOU how to be the top dog that will make both your dogs feel safe and comfortable. In the meantime, you may want to keep your female on a leash so you can immediately correct her when you see her getting that 'look' in her eye. Your male needs to feel that he belongs. Try feeding him some special treats in the house when your female is outside or in another room. Just drop it on the floor and let him eat it. Praise him in a nice happy tone when he does eat it. You can slowly get him used to eating in the house if you give him his own special safe zone (bathroom, laundry room) away from the female. Just go slowly.
    Please feel free to give me a call and we can talk more specifically to your case (430-7719).
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Barking When Playing
    I have a 10 year old german shepard/retriever. He is a very playful 10 year old. He loves playing with his 10" indestructaball in the backyard but he barks at it the whole time. When I take him to the park to play fetch, he is also very vocal. How can I train him to play quietly?

    RE: Barking When Playing
    I can understand your frustration and maybe embarrassment over the barking, but it sounds to me that this is his way of talking to you and showing his excitement. You can try to curb some of that, especially if he is food motivated. Begin to play with him. The 'play' starts as you approach the toy. Tell him to 'sit' and reward him with a treat and praise when he does. Begin to advance to the yard and make him 'sit' and be calm along the way. Each time he is calm and focused on you, give him a treat. If he gets too excited, turn your back or just stand still and look away. Wait for him to be calm. Work in small increments of the play and reward the bahavior you want. When he gets overly excited and starts to bark you can correct him with a very deep, gutteral "NO" and stop/freeze your actions. Look away and wait to see what decision he makes. If he continues to play and bark, go inside and stop playing. You can teach him how to be more quiet if you break it down into small increments. It will take a while, but you will find that as he 'gets it', the increments will move more quickly. Just don't play until you see the behavior you want. This will be harder for you then him! Even if it means you take the toy away!! Do all of this work at your home first before you try the park.
    Let me know how it goes!
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Digging
    Help! I rescued a dog from the animal shelter a little over a year ago, part Border Collie / Mix and she is about 4 years old.. She has started digging holes throughout the yard especially around my trees and flowers. Usually same areas.... Is there anything I can put on her feet to stop this? Or is there some really good stuff I can spread on the yard to make her stop digging that will last?
    She's a Beautiful Dog. Thanks, Pooh Posted by pooh

    RE: Digging
    There are a few things you can try. First, make sure she isn't bored while in the back yard. Give her toys that she only gets when outside. Food dispensing toys are the best (Kong with peanut butter, but check with your vet if she can have peanut butter). Next, some dogs will stop digging if you put their poop in the area where they are digging (I know that is not a fun job!). Others will stop digging if you simply fill the hole almost all the way up, place chicken wire over the hole and then secure the hole/wire with more dirt and/or mulch. When she digs again she will not like that!
    If she is a complusive digger you can also create a digging pit for her. Buy a child's plastic swimming pool, recess it into the ground and put play sand in the pool. Show her this is an ok place to dig by putting a food toy slightly under the sand (let her see you do this) and praise her when she digs there.
    Good luck and thank you for writing!
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Scared Of Loud Noises
    I have a puppy that was a stray, found in a park. I have had him for 2 weeks now. He is around 10 weeks old. When I first got him he was scared of almost everything. We have made great progress, but he still backs away when you move towards him, and is scared of loud noises. I'm not quite sure of how to fix the problem, and any advice you could give would be helpful. Thanks.

    RE: Scared Of Loud Noises
    First, good for you for taking in this little guy! Rescued dogs usually need more time to settle due to their past situations. He may always be afraid of loud noises, but your job as his new 'leader' is to make his world a safe and predictable place. DON'T approach him (unless he is in harms way), ever. He needs to come to you. So, sit down or crouch down on the floor and call him to you in a very happy animated tone. Don't put your hands out in his face. If you reach out in an inviting way (open arms), bring your hands back close to you has he approaches. Let him know that no one will grab at him. He is allowed to come to you on his terms without being overwhelmed.
    Give him time and lots of love. Some rescue dogs take months to settle down and begin to trust. Try to make his home a quiet place for now. Let him get used to you and his new world. Be inviting but not overwhelming.
    And, congratulations on your new family member!
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Destructive Dog
    hello, I need help. My dog is a jack russell terrier/mixed with I don't know what. The problem is this dog follows me every where i go. She will not follow commands. She is constantly taking the papers out of trash cans goes under beds and chews up shoes, wallets, wood from the bed frame, silk flowers, etc. This is a daily thing for her. No matter how much I scold her. It goes in one ear and out the other. I am about to take her back to the pound. She has also chewed up chairs, screen doors, and my kitchen chair legs. What can I do with her?

    RE: Destructive Dog
    It is hard to be 100% sure of what is causing your dog so much stress and/or boredom. How old is she and how long have you had her? What are the dynamics of your home? I would ask your vet for advise on diet. Sometimes excessive chewing is diet related. Excessive chewing and 'not listening' are behavioral problems that can stem from your dog being stressed. Stress occurs for many reasons. Dogs instinctively are looking for the dominate pack member so they can feel safe and secure and just follow. Without finding one (in you), they can become stressed filling that role.
    I would do some basic leader activities with her. Make sure you feed her after you eat and pick up her bowl whether or not she finishes. Give her some food dispensing toys (Kong, Buster Cube, etc). You can also try spraying Bitter Apple on furniture and other items she consistently picks out for her chewing.
    Take her to obedience training or do behavioral training. Remember, dogs don't mean to misbehave. They want to do the right thing, but if we don't communicate clearly and consistently our dogs get confused and frustrated (yes, stressed as well).
    So, before you get totally frustrated, consider some training. You can also call me directly if you want some one-on-one guidance.
    Amy

    11-21-2007
    Attacking When Tired
    I have a 5 year old lab that I rescued at 2 years old. The problem that I am having is when he gets tired he will attack a visiting dog that he has been playing with all day. Buddy the lab was playing with a 1 year old Australian Shepherd mix that was visiting. Once they were worn out and both laying down, Buddy jumped up and attacked the visiting dog. Another time they were lying down and the visiting dog got up, and before we knew it, Buddy attacked him again. This behavior started happening about a year ago.

    RE: Attacking When Tired
    First it's important to understand that dogs never do anything without a reason, and that dogs live in the moment. So there is some reason that Buddy might feel he had to get tough with the other dog, and the answer probably lies in the circumstances surrounding the attack.
    The Australian Shepherd mix was visiting Buddy in Buddy's home environment. While they played, they established which was the dominant dog (the dog that makes the rules). As the dominate dog, Buddy takes on the leadership role of keeping the pack (family) safe.
    The visiting dog may have gotten up and was going toward Buddy's owner or someone may have walked near the visiting dog. The visiting dog may have just given a look that Buddy didn't like. Buddy may have felt threatened by the visiting dog's gesture and physically reminded the other dog who is the boss.
    It is also possible that Buddy was worn out and even sore after play, making him feel less confident in his ability to show his leadership over the other dog. That could make him want to settle the issue abruptly and rudely, rather than with more play.
    Why does Buddy have to settle any issue? Why does he care? Dogs always care about the leadership in the pack and who makes the rules because a well-organized pack ensures that all dogs needs are met.
    Obviously, the human adults should be the leader of the pack, not Buddy. Once Buddy sees his owners as his leaders, they can correct the problem by teaching Buddy that there are no reasons for any "concern" over protecting people, objects or his home.
    The only way to establish leadership is through behavioral training and a full assessment of all the factors that may be at work. As the owners are working on the training, I recommend they supervise Buddy during play and keep him on a leash after playtime so they can watch his body language.
    It is important the humans in Buddy's family A) consistently establish themselves as Buddy's leaders and make the rules and B) watch Buddy and the visiting dog's body language. Clearly, Buddy does not make good decisions as a "leader" in his pack.
    If the owners stay aware of what he is doing and what his body language shows, they can keep both dogs safe. If he "alerts" (head up, ears up and forward and/or direct stare at the other dog) he should be stopped with a deep, guttural "no!" and called to the owner. These types of situations can escalate quickly, so training should be done sooner than later. Usually there was a slow progression to this point, but it is hard for owners to see it developing before the dog shows any problematic behavior. The good news is that dogs don?t really want to be aggressive - they only make that choice when they think it is necessary.